Wake UP

Gadgets and Methods

Re: Wake UP

Postby Kolt » 06 May 2016 18:36

Talk about having your OODA loop interrupted right in the middle of sleep time when you're at your ebb.

Wow.

The dogs sleep inside so hopefully I'd have some warning, but hope is not a plan so I'll rule them out. The alarm as well knowing that if I can bypass them so can others.

Both the wife and I have weapons in the bedroom.

Our original plan was for her to call 911 while going to get the baby with a pistol. I have an AR. Both are suppressed, but that only matters if only we are shooting and even suppressed fire inside a structure is loud, but not enough to keep you from communicating which was the reason behind the decision.

All I can say is go big or go home. I have a solid bedroom door, but they'd just shoot though the drywall walls or possibly breach it depending on their firepower.

If they were thugs, like you mention above, they probably wouldn't want to risk getting shot.

I'd have to go on offense and pray.

The only real advantage I have is my experience and knowing the layout.

I guess it would depend on how many made entry and what funnels I could use in my house.

This is an interesting scenario.

I've got some war gaming to do I'll have to get few buddies together and run this a few times to see how it works out.

Thanks Joe.

Take care,
K
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Re: Wake UP

Postby Ekiwinox » 07 May 2016 10:37

To slow them down some posters might use the five senses. Overload the senses. If the poster knows they are going to happen but the intruder does not that is an advantage and force multiplyer. First stop... the doors. I might go Dr. Bronner here, All One! Tossing in some non sequitur annoying missspellings, double meanings, the baby, the bathwater and the kitchen sink, various typesets and sizes, angles. "Warning All Who Pass This Door... I would employ some type of loud noise they are not expecting, tape of dogs barking, confusing racket. Pressurized air puffs. Foam. Strong Smells. Flashing lights. Moving lights. Woodpecker knocking. A guy with a gun they are going to be ready for. A manakin, or a storm trooper or a Just My Size Barbie they are not ready for. Fishing line strung around would be anoying. A shade that one pulls down or folding door across in the hallway that shows different than what is behind it. Like a huge photograph of armed soilders looking out the back of an aircraft. A floor to ceiling photo of a grandma holding out a freshly baked goody but then her eyeballs start to glow red. Patterns to confuse. Blast of hot air. Stuff hanging down from ceiling to bother. People do not like wate or strange substances sprayed on them. Mud on their sneakers. Stuff in their hair. Bugs. Snakes. Spiders. A huge spider guards my back door in August. A huge carpenter bee in July dive bombs us. Bats are scary. Big gooses are scarry. Rattley hula hoops falling. Noise of rabbit killing. House of horrors. Floor move or shake or bump. Floor to ceiling wallpaper strip that looks like a doorway into a room but is a wall. Full length mirrors. The guys movement will be another scary guy. Sounds of your voice coming from different places saying something like "Perp One Down", "Perp Two Down", and "Last Perp Targeted". Fast paced. You will be used to the noise but a newcomer will not. Houses used to have an Indian step. One step a bit taller than the rest. From what I see the campers are used to some odd steps. Just not having steps where a person expects a step. A door frame built at a marked tilt. I'd be standing there wondering why that door frame is off. They expect to see a normal house when they get in. What they get is something different. They step in and they are in a box. A 3' by 3' box with no doorhandles or further entry. If a corner is pushed one can open two walls a bit. The walls are secured with a center pole floor to ceiling. But opening the door means the walls also close in behind him allowing only one person through at a time. This could be even just cardboard painted black floor to ceiling. Or have inside the front door open to something where the entry has a very low roof or the doorway top is low. Or there is both a low roof and a raised step over. Or a really skinny door inside. This is the area we want them stuck in. If they get inside we want them stuck in this box. Or put porches at the doorways and get the stuck there on the porch or first making noise at the entry to the porch door. Can we make the floor super glue? Is the door handle electrified? Pull up the steps every night. I would use these methods to make time for my escape. Don't exactly know how I would do that. Tunnels would be great but difficult to make. It is the family one wants to secure. The time is to get family maybe to a vehicle and away. Spending time defending? Really there should be little tricks to deter their vehicle from even selecting the place. Or a sign Mega's Package store just over the next ridge arrow. It is good if one can make it look from the road like this place has already been hit and there is nothing left. In reality I have been known to grab a can of shaving cream or greenbeans and head to the door.
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Re: Wake UP

Postby tango2charlie » 09 Jun 2016 23:32

Ran the drill, Involved the family as they rolled their eyes ( I have teenagers).
1st thought - don't fire until threat is identified (might be family coming home late)

2nd thought - how far will my OO buck shot spread from an elevated firing position (upstairs loft) down to the front door 25 feet away. I don't remember so its time to get back to the range or consider going to a long gun with a night sight/laser

3rd thought - (not to take away from the purpose of the drill) why is my door being kicked in and why am I letting someone get this close to the house? We used to set out counter measures while trying to rest in a patrol base back in the infantry days. Although trip flares and flashbangs may not be welcome in the neighborhood. Hmmmmm why not put the Yorkie out on post. These animals can detect the slightest sound and they are constantly on guard and are very great at barking loud enough to wake even the deepest of sleepers. Light weight, man portable, fiercely loyal sentries these dogs are. Sorry Mr yorkie your butt is sleeping downstairs from now on.

Last thought - The neighbors are going to go bizerk when I launch the counter attack from the boulders in their front lawn. :o

Thanks for the drill its good and a very real possibility since we Americans are very comfortable and our guard goes down in the comfort of our homes.
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Re: Wake UP

Postby kmussack » 10 Jun 2016 05:50

Something that can contribute to your defensive posture without costing too much is to reinforce your entry door frames.

For about $10 at Tractor Supply or Lowes you can buy a 1-1/2" wide X 1/8" thick X 4' long piece of hot rolled steel strip.

Cut it out for your lock bolt and then drill and countersink three or four holes above and below the centered cut-out.

Then secure that metal strip in your door frame with 3" long sheet rock screws.

What could previously be defeated with a single kick or blow with a ram will take several attempts once reinforced.
This buys you precious time.

Additionally, if you have a storm door; lock it as well. It's easily breached but it makes noise and takes time.
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Re: Wake UP

Postby kmussack » 10 Jun 2016 07:28

Steps can be taken to harden you dwelling against a “no-knock” or “dynamic” entry.

Any door can be breached the question is how long will it take and how much noise will it make.

Additionally, lessons can be learned by studying the architecture of medieval castles. Many castles incorporated a forward defensible structure jutting out from a castle. This feature was called a “barbican”. It formed part of the castle gatehouse complex.

Image

These “gate houses” would incorporate a main gate and an inner portcullis (a heavy timber or metal grill) with a space between them so that when the exterior gate was breached the attacking force would have to enter this space to breach the inner gate. Along and above this space were “murder holes” that would allow the defenders to shoot at the attackers and pour boiling oil on them etc.

The 21st century analog to this space between two gates might be called a mud room or an air lock or a foyer. The key is to have an exterior entry door, a space, and an interior entry door so that any home invader would have to breach a door, move, and then breach another door before gaining entry to your home. All of this gives you warning and buys you precious time.
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Re: Wake UP

Postby Dwills2 » 10 Jun 2016 11:09

kmussack wrote:Steps can be taken to harden you dwelling against a “no-knock” or “dynamic” entry.

Any door can be breached the question is how long will it take and how much noise will it make.

Additionally, lessons can be learned by studying the architecture of medieval castles. Many castles incorporated a forward defensible structure jutting out from a castle. This feature was called a “barbican”. It formed part of the castle gatehouse complex.

Image

These “gate houses” would incorporate a main gate and an inner portcullis (a heavy timber or metal grill) with a space between them so that when the exterior gate was breached the attacking force would have to enter this space to breach the inner gate. Along and above this space were “murder holes” that would allow the defenders to shoot at the attackers and pour boiling oil on them etc.

The 21st century analog to this space between two gates might be called a mud room or an air lock or a foyer. The key is to have an exterior entry door, a space, and an interior entry door so that any home invader would have to breach a door, move, and then breach another door before gaining entry to your home. All of this gives you warning and buys you precious time.


I never thought about a modern Barbican that way. Thats not a bad idea. Could ways use an arctic entry.
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Re: Wake UP

Postby kmussack » 10 Jun 2016 12:21

“The modern world demands that we approve what it should not even dare ask us to tolerate.” Nicolas Gomez Davila
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Re: Wake UP

Postby mosby's men » 10 Jul 2016 08:54

we designed a mud room into our house , the laundry room goes off one side and the main hallway goes off another . with two doors you can run the laundry at any time and not hear it .
the mud room makes a good place to put the big dogs when we let strangers on the property . we put that frp on the walls so when the dogs are muddy it wipes off easy . it helps keep
the a/c inside when the heat index is 105 , all the door frames are triple thick with long screws in the hinges .
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Re: Wake UP

Postby Larry G » 18 Aug 2016 17:52

I use two methods of physical door security. I use the Strikemaster II Pro or its equivalent. It reinforces door jamb and hinges. In addition, I use an old school device called “The Club.” My goal in door security is to provide adequate time to grab the 12 gauge, calmly walk to the door and yell, “There’s a 12 gauge loaded with number one buck pointed at your head. Do you really want to do this?” I made light of it, but it makes a point. If someone tries to kick my door in, I plan on having a bit more than the five to ten seconds proposed in the scenario.

The first video is to show how old this device is. The second is self explanatory. Both are 30 seconds or less. The Club is available at Home Depot. $20.95 for shiny brass and $24.95 for antique.

1994 The Door Club Commercial
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngq9Hf6xCDw

Door with the Door Club.wmv
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzCBxLNTeL8
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Re: Wake UP

Postby Larry G » 16 Oct 2016 07:48

I forgot to add another door security device. That's because they're not installed. They will only be installed after it hits the fan and things start to get crazy.

I keep two sets of open and closed bar holders available in the home. Those holders are primarily used with a 2 x 4 to secure barn doors. Tractor Supply sells them.
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